Astonishly Steep Glacier-Carved Mountainsides Carved Over One Million Years Have Left New Zealand’s South Island a Jaw Dropping Gem

    Leaving Christchurch on New Zealand’s South Island by the Tranz Alpine train is a thrill.  The cold morning air wakes you like no coffee ever could.  The train cars have a domed roof so passengers can peer out at the farms that eventually give way to the Alps without having the squish your face up to the glass.  There are two children sitting across the aisle from us SCREAMING a shrill rendition of “Old McDonald”, so my handsome husband goes in search of an unoccupied space so we can ogle the enormous snow-capped peaks in peace. My camera cannot capture the grandeur of the size – peak linked to peak, all covered in dazzling white snow for miles. The provided headset rests on my ears while I listen to commentary about the region by the most soothing voice, perhaps more suitable for a meditation CD.  I say this because although I enjoy learning whatever she is saying, my eyelids go heavy and my head bobs to spite the outrageous view.  I walk to the outside viewing car for a bone chilling wake up and more mountain views. 

   We arrive in Greymouth and head down the coast in our hire car, driving on the left side of the road towards Franz Joseph glacier.   The sun is setting, leaving the clouds pink and fluffy over our pit stop, a reed-filled lake near Hikatoka named Lake Mahinapua. The air is cold but still and the setting sun is casting every earthly body with a shade of golden light.  We can see the clouds in the sky mirrored in the lake and it is beautiful in this late light of day.  Hitting the road again, the cold grey Tasman Sea to our right is raging and wild. I am glad I am not out there in that heavy sea with big swells and waves crashing onto shore.   It is just past 5:00 and soon we find ourselves driving on a very dark, windy and “did I say dark?” road, yet we have a way to go before we reach Franz Joseph.  Just as it begins to pour buckets and I am white knuckles sitting on the passenger seat, we arrive at The Aspen Court Motel, safe and in need of a beer. 

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      New Zealand’s Crown Range may be one of the most beautiful drives in the world, after the “Road to Hana” on Maui.  The Alps here are so tall you can rarely see the tops, and sometimes there is a shawl of clouds near the top and the peak will still rise majestically towards this blue sky day.  The range dropped into the Otago valley wine country.  Standing at Peregrine Winery, I am in disbelief as I look at green fields and grapevines that are growing under tall snow-capped mountains.  That morning we woke up to see the countryside outside the town on Wanaka at Mount Maude Lodge, a treat not to be skipped over.  I lucked out finding this on Expedia New Zealand and had the best night sleep cuddled under a down comforter. So warm and inviting was the heated mattress that I slept like a dream waking to a crisp clear morning, outside the air smelled fresh and clean, I cough because I think my lungs are not accustomed to breathing air this fresh.  John, the owner has a sweet pup named Gem and some sheep.  He shows us how Gem can nimbly heard the sheep with just a few voice commands while never touching them.  We witness double rainbows and ate salmon minutes after it had been caught.  All in all a perfect day.

   Heading towards Queenstown, we find the original company who started the Bungy Jump.  We watched as people throw themselves off the brown iron truss bridge towards the river below.  A yellow zodiac boat is on the bank of the river just below to retrieve the jumpers.  Tanner wanted to try bungee, then his practical side kicked in and instead we were off to Queenstown for some delicious food at Taco Medic. The owner is an-ex pat from Philly, who found his way here to New Zealand after traveling the world. He found that there were no taco shops in Queenstown, so he built perfect taco shop with handmade corn tortillas and the freshest ingredients. It’s the best taco I’ve had outside of Mexico.

    Queenstown is a resort town situated on a lake front that caters to skiers, snowboarders and tourists of all types.  It is crowded but has good unhurried energy.  People are taking pictures, eating, shopping,  but what is not typical is the landscape in which they’re doing it. The gondola takes adventurers up the mountain nearly into the sky to the east side of the city while the waterfront lies on the shore of a glacier carved lake with mountains raising high on both sides.  It is a fun town for visit, unless you’re looking for peace and quiet.